首页 > 偶尔, 旅行 > 有一个地方,叫西藏

有一个地方,叫西藏

2012年10月26日

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据说,从西藏回来的人,都会变得神神叨叨的。但是,我想我没有。不太厚道的解释是:神神叨叨是因为缺氧高反,而我这种当年在海拔5231米的唐古拉山口还活蹦乱跳的异类,是免疫的。

这个叫西藏的地方,我去了两次。每一次都有点传奇。第一次是2006年,赶在青藏铁路开通前做随行报道。我是主动请缨的,那天下午在选题会上定了,第2天买机票,第3天一早就出发了。全程19天。这一次,2012年9月20日,我很偶然在网上看到了“红粉笔支教”西藏站的信息,40小时之内,我搞定了报名全部流程,准备并提交了教案,并且买好了机票。10月5日晚上,飞到了拉萨。全程9天。其实2次都算不上旅行,都是有正事的。但是,那些见缝插针的观光,和生活着或者流浪着的感觉,却充满了危险的魔力

这一次,其实是可以转机飞林芝的,但我选择了去程飞拉萨再长途车去林芝。如果我说我真的只是为了站在布达拉宫前,呼吸一下高原的清冽空气,在心底轻轻哼唱一句“回到拉萨,回到了布达拉”,然后留一张影,这样是不是很矫情?但是,真的,那天晚上8点半降落贡嘎机场,从机场到市区的大巴上,我抬头看着漫天繁星,就悄悄开始激动了。大巴在市区的停靠点就在布达拉的旁边,这时夜色正深浓,布达拉像是黑底色上的唐卡,比起白天的熙攘,这时的它静默而安祥,美得那么不真实。我就这么站着,望着,仿佛六年的时光在耳边哗哗倒流,我又回到那时那刻

从拉萨到林芝的这一段路,据说是西藏最美的公路之一。但是很漫长,因为限速,要开8个小时。一路上秋色延展,每一段的植被都有不同,绿树成荫的,黄叶闪着金光的,深沉如诉的红叶林,阔叶的,针叶的,高大的,低矮的,有鲜艳五色的波斯菊,居然还有金黄的油菜花!偶尔闪过玛尼堆,风马旗,或者几处传统民居。群山环绕中,有河流蜿蜒流过,倒映着蓝得没道理的天空和形态各异的白云。在司机大声播放的藏歌中,心却慢慢的宁静下来,城市和忙碌渐行渐远。

ontheway

我们住的米林县的那个小旅馆,推开窗就是雅鲁藏布江,在门口抬头就可以看见雪山。这个宁静的小县城,几乎没有什么旅行的味道。从这里到我支教的那个小学40分钟山路,一路相伴的连绵群山就是喜马拉雅山脉的一部分,蜿蜒流淌的就是雅鲁藏布江。这条路也很美,还路过山与江之间的林芝机场,每天都看到飞机起飞直插云霄。连续几天看到彩虹,甚至有双彩虹,挂在雨后湿润的天空上,让我这样在城市中蜗居已久的人屡屡惊叹。

一天出发得早,我们在途中的一个观景平台停留了20分钟。视野开阔,群山被云雾缭绕,像一条轻柔的丝巾。大家开心得乱蹦乱跳。雅鲁藏布江宽阔处,有江中沙洲,洲上点缀着几棵树,错落有致,怎么看都是一幅疏密有致的图画。

一天,我们利用中午的休息时间,结伴去山上的羌纳寺。寺院有近500年历史,因地震于1953迁建于现址。寺不大,却很精致。住持西洛次仁(法号:落桑扎巴)与人方便,为我们开了殿门,用不熟练的汉语做简单的讲解 。43岁的他在此已有25年。推门进去,仿佛进入另一重洞天。里面有精致的壁画,华丽的唐卡,一组组栩栩如生的佛像,包括被认为文殊菩萨的化身的格鲁派(黄教)创始人宗喀巴,和我们印象中形象完全不同的观音菩萨等等,这里甚至还有一幅装裱好的丝绸,绣着汉语和藏语“中华人民共和国各族人民团结起来。——毛泽东  中央代表团赠”,是毛泽东的亲笔题字,而且据西洛次仁说这是孤品,全西藏只有这里有。我们静静的弯腰从装满经卷的柜子下穿过,也在佛像前静静合掌致意。而在寺外的院子里,有野花肆意开放,有狗儿摇动着尾巴走过,甚至有大公鸡淡定的走过。有两个年轻人在阳光下读经,金色的阳光温暖的笼罩着他们。

一天午后,我和三两人的小组一起在村里漫步。路边有大片的玉米地,有野果,有藏香猪在刚刚犁过的黑色肥沃土地里散步,甚至有马奔过路口,鬃毛和尾巴在飘动。民居充满生气,与传统的平顶的藏南碉楼不同的是,这里的屋顶是斜顶,最美的那一种是用木片如瓦片般叠放,上面压着石块,放佛五线谱上的音符。门和窗都有色彩斑斓的装饰,有的门口挂着装饰精美的牦牛头骨,牛儿在草棚中安静吃草,土狗一见生人就尽职的狂吠。那种偷得浮生半日闲的感觉,充满了幸福因子。

一天放学之后回旅馆的路上,我们在另一个观景点停下来,这里是尼洋河和雅鲁藏布江“江河汇流”处,江水浑浊而河水清澈,形成了泾渭分明的奇特画面。我们沿着木制的栈道下到江边,看波澜起伏,望云卷云舒。天色渐暗,我们还流连忘返。

最后一天的联欢结束之后,我们商量了一下,不够时间游览雅鲁藏布江大峡谷景区了,但一路都很美,就决定到景区门口“到此一游”。这一路的景色果然让大家都赞叹“不虚此行”,我们停下的那个观景点,可以看到江对岸的半圆型沙丘。而事实比风景要残酷——这是生态环境恶化,出现沙化的结果。风起时,远远的空中腾起一片细沙,细到分不清是沙还是雾,很有科幻大片的感觉。飘扬的五色风马旗被阳光以及江面的反光映成了透明,美得如梦如幻。

summit

到了景区门口,景色太美,每个人都在不停的拍照,想留住这一刻的美与感动。雅鲁藏布江的一条支流在这里拐弯,五彩缤纷色彩艳丽到夺目的波斯菊衬着远处雪山的背景,简直就是一幅油画。我们坐在河边等啊等,终于等到南迦巴瓦峰从云层中露出来,忍不住一齐欢呼。夕阳的金光染着刀锋似的山峰,有震撼人心的美。空中的云朵有白色灰色层次丰富,而云层中间露出的天空却蓝得那么无邪。我想,很多年之后,我也一定会怀念“那一年,我们一起看的南迦巴瓦峰”。

那天晚上的星星真美,不仅可以看到清晰的一条银河,甚至看到聚集成团的“星云”。不知道下一次看到这样的星空,会是什么时候,会是在哪里呢?

秋水 偶尔, 旅行

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