首页 > 偶尔, 旅行 > 有一个地方，叫西藏

有一个地方，叫西藏

2012年10月26日

budala

据说，从西藏回来的人，都会变得神神叨叨的。但是，我想我没有。不太厚道的解释是：神神叨叨是因为缺氧高反，而我这种当年在海拔5231米的唐古拉山口还活蹦乱跳的异类，是免疫的。

这个叫西藏的地方，我去了两次。每一次都有点传奇。第一次是2006年，赶在青藏铁路开通前做随行报道。我是主动请缨的，那天下午在选题会上定了，第2天买机票，第3天一早就出发了。全程19天。这一次，2012年9月20日，我很偶然在网上看到了“红粉笔支教”西藏站的信息，40小时之内，我搞定了报名全部流程，准备并提交了教案，并且买好了机票。10月5日晚上，飞到了拉萨。全程9天。其实2次都算不上旅行，都是有正事的。但是，那些见缝插针的观光，和生活着或者流浪着的感觉，却充满了危险的魔力。

这一次，其实是可以转机飞林芝的，但我选择了去程飞拉萨再长途车去林芝。如果我说我真的只是为了站在布达拉宫前，呼吸一下高原的清冽空气，在心底轻轻哼唱一句“回到拉萨，回到了布达拉”，然后留一张影，这样是不是很矫情？但是，真的，那天晚上8点半降落贡嘎机场，从机场到市区的大巴上，我抬头看着漫天繁星，就悄悄开始激动了。大巴在市区的停靠点就在布达拉的旁边，这时夜色正深浓，布达拉像是黑底色上的唐卡，比起白天的熙攘，这时的它静默而安祥，美得那么不真实。我就这么站着，望着，仿佛六年的时光在耳边哗哗倒流，我又回到那时那刻。

从拉萨到林芝的这一段路，据说是西藏最美的公路之一。但是很漫长，因为限速，要开8个小时。一路上秋色延展，每一段的植被都有不同，绿树成荫的，黄叶闪着金光的，深沉如诉的红叶林，阔叶的，针叶的，高大的，低矮的，有鲜艳五色的波斯菊，居然还有金黄的油菜花！偶尔闪过玛尼堆，风马旗，或者几处传统民居。群山环绕中，有河流蜿蜒流过，倒映着蓝得没道理的天空和形态各异的白云。在司机大声播放的藏歌中，心却慢慢的宁静下来，城市和忙碌渐行渐远。

ontheway

我们住的米林县的那个小旅馆，推开窗就是雅鲁藏布江，在门口抬头就可以看见雪山。这个宁静的小县城，几乎没有什么旅行的味道。从这里到我支教的那个小学40分钟山路，一路相伴的连绵群山就是喜马拉雅山脉的一部分，蜿蜒流淌的就是雅鲁藏布江。这条路也很美，还路过山与江之间的林芝机场，每天都看到飞机起飞直插云霄。连续几天看到彩虹，甚至有双彩虹，挂在雨后湿润的天空上，让我这样在城市中蜗居已久的人屡屡惊叹。

一天出发得早，我们在途中的一个观景平台停留了20分钟。视野开阔，群山被云雾缭绕，像一条轻柔的丝巾。大家开心得乱蹦乱跳。雅鲁藏布江宽阔处，有江中沙洲，洲上点缀着几棵树，错落有致，怎么看都是一幅疏密有致的图画。

一天，我们利用中午的休息时间，结伴去山上的羌纳寺。寺院有近500年历史，因地震于1953迁建于现址。寺不大，却很精致。住持西洛次仁（法号：落桑扎巴）与人方便，为我们开了殿门，用不熟练的汉语做简单的讲解 。43岁的他在此已有25年。推门进去，仿佛进入另一重洞天。里面有精致的壁画，华丽的唐卡，一组组栩栩如生的佛像，包括被认为文殊菩萨的化身的格鲁派（黄教）创始人宗喀巴，和我们印象中形象完全不同的观音菩萨等等，这里甚至还有一幅装裱好的丝绸，绣着汉语和藏语“中华人民共和国各族人民团结起来。——毛泽东  中央代表团赠”，是毛泽东的亲笔题字，而且据西洛次仁说这是孤品，全西藏只有这里有。我们静静的弯腰从装满经卷的柜子下穿过，也在佛像前静静合掌致意。而在寺外的院子里，有野花肆意开放，有狗儿摇动着尾巴走过，甚至有大公鸡淡定的走过。有两个年轻人在阳光下读经，金色的阳光温暖的笼罩着他们。

一天午后，我和三两人的小组一起在村里漫步。路边有大片的玉米地，有野果，有藏香猪在刚刚犁过的黑色肥沃土地里散步，甚至有马奔过路口，鬃毛和尾巴在飘动。民居充满生气，与传统的平顶的藏南碉楼不同的是，这里的屋顶是斜顶，最美的那一种是用木片如瓦片般叠放，上面压着石块，放佛五线谱上的音符。门和窗都有色彩斑斓的装饰，有的门口挂着装饰精美的牦牛头骨，牛儿在草棚中安静吃草，土狗一见生人就尽职的狂吠。那种偷得浮生半日闲的感觉，充满了幸福因子。

一天放学之后回旅馆的路上，我们在另一个观景点停下来，这里是尼洋河和雅鲁藏布江“江河汇流”处，江水浑浊而河水清澈，形成了泾渭分明的奇特画面。我们沿着木制的栈道下到江边，看波澜起伏，望云卷云舒。天色渐暗，我们还流连忘返。

最后一天的联欢结束之后，我们商量了一下，不够时间游览雅鲁藏布江大峡谷景区了，但一路都很美，就决定到景区门口“到此一游”。这一路的景色果然让大家都赞叹“不虚此行”，我们停下的那个观景点，可以看到江对岸的半圆型沙丘。而事实比风景要残酷——这是生态环境恶化，出现沙化的结果。风起时，远远的空中腾起一片细沙，细到分不清是沙还是雾，很有科幻大片的感觉。飘扬的五色风马旗被阳光以及江面的反光映成了透明，美得如梦如幻。

summit

到了景区门口，景色太美，每个人都在不停的拍照，想留住这一刻的美与感动。雅鲁藏布江的一条支流在这里拐弯，五彩缤纷色彩艳丽到夺目的波斯菊衬着远处雪山的背景，简直就是一幅油画。我们坐在河边等啊等，终于等到南迦巴瓦峰从云层中露出来，忍不住一齐欢呼。夕阳的金光染着刀锋似的山峰，有震撼人心的美。空中的云朵有白色灰色层次丰富，而云层中间露出的天空却蓝得那么无邪。我想，很多年之后，我也一定会怀念“那一年，我们一起看的南迦巴瓦峰”。

那天晚上的星星真美，不仅可以看到清晰的一条银河，甚至看到聚集成团的“星云”。不知道下一次看到这样的星空，会是什么时候，会是在哪里呢？

秋水 偶尔, 旅行

  1. イルビゾンテ バッグ
    2014年5月18日15:50 | #1
    回复 | 引用
  2. rowvkleve
    2014年5月18日16:04 | #2
    回复 | 引用

    Happy Home » 有一个地方，叫西藏
    rowvkleve http://www.ga7jk1ub1p0wz0dl972g2y876×031lx4s.org/
    [url=http://www.ga7jk1ub1p0wz0dl972g2y876x031lx4s.org/]urowvkleve[/url]
    arowvkleve

  3. http://adtennisclub.gr/templates/news/louboutin_70.htm
    2014年5月18日16:47 | #3
    回复 | 引用

    My bag arrived yesterday, just loved, I will make more purchases of your stuff guys, it’s beautiful, really good stuff, was my first purchase by express there and was very satisfied, I will indicate them

  4. Louis Vuitton Sale,Louis Vuitton Outlet zweibrücken For Sale
    2014年5月18日17:00 | #4
    回复 | 引用

    Not even just what exactly ones own ready for (fixing). Unclear if the tone is also a honest polo (created Indian). Abrasive material not to mention super unattractive.

  5. replica gucci belts
    2014年5月18日17:26 | #5
    回复 | 引用

    Any three-day episode of twisters along with chaotic climate that pulverized houses through the Area for the Deeply Southerly features slain at the least 30 men and women. Here are several reports from people in Illinois, Ms along with Creola who made it over the frightening chaos. gucci outlet
    Nicely Resize [url=http://www.panguide.com/links.php?key=cheap-louboutins]cheap louboutins[/url]
    He’ll be in Houston Mondy to see Doctor. Manley Mehlhoff for the next opinion. Mehlhoff controlled in A’s modest nfl drink pitcher Fernando Rodriguez effectively recently enough where Rodriguez is actually 1-0 with a One particular.04 Age in his initially eight video games together with Triple-A Sacramento. [url=http://www.panguide.com/links.php?key=christian-louboutin-discount]christian louboutin discount[/url]
    Switch replica gucci belts
    We’re also going to present Foreign and Nz consumers the best possible products which we can supply from my international functions, once we make a powerful long term pertaining to Holden. [url=http://www.panguide.com/links.php?key=cheap-louboutins]cheap louboutins[/url]
    He ohydrates a new huge, guy, in linebacker Craig Robertson said. All of you realize. You do not must ask myself. When you are getting a new monster back, it s constantly much better.

  6. karen millen coat
    2014年5月18日19:12 | #6
    回复 | 引用

    Easy beige women bag. Artificial skin a little nacreous. I received a parcel for the 36th day. Rus. O4en’ legenkaja cumo4ka. Etiketka MANGO :) pohozhe na to. Cvet skoree svetlo-kori4nevyj, s legkim perlomutrovym ottenkom. Shwy vse rovnye, nitki ne tor4at. W celom ponravilos’, mozhno brat’. Polu4ila na 36 den.
    karen millen coat http://thebelgianbeercompany.com/Blog/karenmillen.asp?id=11
    karen millen coat

  7. tory burch shoes outlet
    2014年5月18日19:32 | #7
    回复 | 引用

    Irish’s accomplishments on the monitor are merely part of the reason why the woman seemed to be called as among the workforce captains. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptoryburchshoes.html]tory burch shoes outlet[/url]
    Besides, any tightening world wide tendency where by precious metal sophisticated the most because mid-March since stresses involving Italy as well as Ukraine increased, improving need for the dear precious metal to be a safe place, in addition increased your emotion here, they said. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptoryburchshoes.html]cheap tory burch shoes[/url]
    Paddle celebration displays stream can be used for adventure [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptoryburchshoes.html]tory burch outlet online[/url]
    39 At the. Initially STREET [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptrjeans.html]cheap true religion[/url]
    Your subway key arrived inside Bay Area waving about a new multimillion-dollar notice of credit history and boasting that she had access to all the more funds, in line with options linked to the instance. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptrjeans.html]cheap true religion jeans[/url]
    Warren Steven Willette, 45, of Mountain Home, pleaded not guilty to delivery of methamphetamine. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/cheaptrjeans.html]true religion outlet[/url]
    Drink protected drinking water

  8. mulberry outlet onlinemulberry outlet online
    2014年5月18日19:47 | #8
    回复 | 引用

    I like the design of the shoe a lot and the shoe is pretty. I just wish the inside material was sewn better and did not show from the outside when I’m wearing the shoe. I am going to have to find a way to trim the excess material down. Other than that, I like the shoe a lot.
    mulberry outlet onlinemulberry outlet online

  9. Tommy Bahama Outlet
    2014年5月18日19:55 | #9
    回复 | 引用

    This is really nice to know. I hope it will be successful in the future. Good job on this and keep up the good work.

  10. karen millen outlet online
    2014年5月18日19:57 | #10
    回复 | 引用

    Fiquei muito satisfeita com a minha bolsa. Chegou num prazo razoavel. Alem de ser perfeita a bolsa, com um otimo acabamento. Sem defeitos. Adorei!I am happy with the product! The dark coffe collor is a little lighter than in the picture, but it is pretty. Fast delivery too!

  11. karen millen dresses sale
    2014年5月18日19:57 | #11
    回复 | 引用

    Dear Wen, I’m very sorry that I could not get the product, but I got the refund, it is a pity. Thanks for your help.Took forever to arrive, bought on 11/25/13 arrived 02/12/14. But it was epera, perfect product, it was gorgeous!

  12. mulberry handbags
    2014年5月18日19:58 | #12
    回复 | 引用

    thank you,the order came very quickly,but the skin is very thin. but otherwise conform to the descriptionbag as in the photo, the quality is good, except the handles need limiters, and that bag is going as hormones

  13. ブランド 激安
    2014年5月18日20:03 | #13
    回复 | 引用
  14. wholesale newport cigarettes
    2014年5月18日20:07 | #14
    回复 | 引用

    Bag top quality! Spacious, good comfortable handles. The hue corresponds to photograph Thanks seller!!The bag was amazing, soft, comfortable. All lines are good. I was satisfied.

  15. cheap newports
    2014年5月18日20:09 | #15
    回复 | 引用

    goods of fine quality! Shipping to Russia 25 days! No smell! ALL SUPER! I’m happy!thanks a lot. The transaction is here. Quality and price. Wife really liked.

  16. newport 100s
    2014年5月18日20:10 | #16
    回复 | 引用

    seller took care of the problem immediately!! Appreciate it!! Very beautiful bag, fast delivery, good seller��Excellent! My business is happy when using the bag! Fast Shipping! Top quality product! Only positive emotions! Appreciate it!

  17. karen millen dresses
    2014年5月19日03:17 | #17
    回复 | 引用

    In black color looks beautiful in the picture. Kachetvo so sebe.dostavka Belarus this month.Very Good Transaction, Very good Item, good quality, ThanksMany thanks, bag it is improbable, everything is excellent
    karen millen dresses http://clacksfirst.co.uk/static/kms.asp?id=2
    karen millen dresses

  18. http://playerforge.com/zhengcanny/blog/143083/
    2014年5月19日04:38 | #18
    回复 | 引用
  19. mulberry outlet
    2014年5月19日06:30 | #19
    回复 | 引用

    sise 31 was big for my, but good for my friend, material is good ! i,l order the smallerHigh quality summer jeans! My hight is 170 (46 russian size) and they fit perfectly.(the white jeans isn’t transparant)Thank you very much dear seller and happy new year)
    mulberry outlet http://mydivx.info/mulberry-outlet/
    mulberry outlet

  20. ray ban glasses
    2014年5月19日06:59 | #20
    回复 | 引用

    The company is currently the main topics an analysis from the Aussie Investments Assets Percentage for purportedly deceiving the market, while many Padbury buyers are generally calling for the class-action litigation up against the corporation. ray ban sunglasses cheap
    Hardwood Tendencies [url=http://www.celebrationoffood.co.uk/sunglasses.php?key=cheap-sunglasses]cheap sunglasses[/url]
    Your jet went off Malaysian mouth on 1:Twenty-one any.mirielle. in Drive Eight, in addition to Vietnamese air flow visitors remote controls started out contacting Kuala Lumpur from 1:Thirty-eight a new.meters. whenever they failed to establish mental experience of your aviators as well as the jet didn’t show up on their own radar, according to the five-page statement, that has been was involved with May In search of and delivered very last missouri [url=http://www.celebrationoffood.co.uk/sunglasses.php?key=cheap-ray-ban-sunglasses-uk]cheap ray ban sunglasses uk[/url]
    BALTIMORE ray ban clubmaster
    The Sharks a 3-0 steer immediately after defeating the Noblemen throughout in the long run within La. They a new toe nail in the coffin. The Nobleman had been rattled and shook, shaken and on their particular pumps.

  21. discount tory burch sandals
    2014年5月19日10:37 | #21
    回复 | 引用

    Hayward’s make it possible for middle is going to be shut Fridays via at the least no longer the entire year. [url=http://www.picketreport.com/sponsor.php?p=tory-burch-leopard-flats]tory burch leopard flats[/url]
    Useful deliberate or not [url=http://www.picketreport.com/sponsor.php?p=tory-burch-thong-sandals]tory burch thong sandals[/url]
    “It has become disappointing to view your work regarding one particular persons jointly in consort with the bad side in monitoring.” [url=http://www.picketreport.com/sponsor.php?p=tory-burch-eddie-ballet-flats]tory burch eddie ballet flats[/url]
    Filed under: Country News Jeff Vespa, WireImage You don’t really have to be a football fan to decode the news Dierks Bentley tweeted Wednesday night (April 24): “So my wife and I will be changing our family defensive strategy come the fall. Switching from MAN-TO-MAN to ZONE. #3! Advice @theTimMcGraw?!” … [url=http://www.picketreport.com/sponsor.php?p=tory-burch-boots-sale]tory burch boots sale[/url]
    04/30/2014 August:Twenty-one:Two thousand and seven Pm hours PDT [url=http://www.picketreport.com/sponsor.php?p=tory-burch-caroline-flats]tory burch caroline flats[/url]
    Yet thinks a lot of the downgrading in addition to be worried about Myspace is around just how individuals perceive this – generally throughout exactly how experts evaluate this to be able to Myspace. Twitter, even though, is nothing just like the online social network Myspace, Oremus published.

  22. moncler outlet
    2014年5月19日20:25 | #22
    回复 | 引用

    You can easily have it replaced and get another designer replica, without having to pay anything extra.Thus, considering all the benefits one has with it is a surprise that not many people go in for the option still. If you really want to experience how it might be to own such a watch and proudly show it to the world as to how good it could really be, then don’t hesitate and invest in this kind of watch right away. The feeling of owning such high end designer brands for practically no money is quite a unique one, and one that you should definitely be looking forward to.

  23. wholesale newport cigarettes
    2014年5月20日00:40 | #23
    回复 | 引用

    The bag is good. There is certainly merely one aspect of its design – it is simple to attain the in the bag after it is zipped up through the openings upon sides from the zipper.

  24. blank snapback hats
    2014年5月20日01:59 | #24
    回复 | 引用

    The pump is a quality it looks like the picture, only thing the arch is to high you can’t stand too long, I’m a size six and it fits true to size and the shipment was fast.Amazing shoe. Have recommended to friends and will be buying more <3
    blank snapback hats

  25. ray ban pas cher
    2014年5月20日03:13 | #25
    回复 | 引用

    Advert [url=http://www.jolipunk.fr/lunettes.php?key=ray-ban-aviator-pas-cher]ray ban aviator pas cher[/url]
    SHARECLOSEBloggerGoogle+Live JournalPlurkStumble UponNEXT ARTICLEFreedom Evening displays rightful approach to South Africa’s futureWrite some sort of CommentType inside photograph codeReceive Tiongkok Post promosRespond to this particular e-mail lunette de soleil pas cher
    The particular umpires with the North-East have given a transparent judgment: “Not from obtain.” [url=http://www.jolipunk.fr/lunettes.php?key=lunettes-de-soleil-pas-cher]lunettes de soleil pas cher[/url]
      lunette ray ban pas cher
    The fee is definitely $40. Pertaining to booking, call 298-7127. ray ban aviator pas cher
    Medina: African american Water, Brunswick, Highland, Medina Joint Occupation University, Wadsworth. [url=http://www.jolipunk.fr/lunettes.php?key=ray-ban-pas-cher]ray ban pas cher[/url]
    (Rev. Ken Wendland is actually pastor of Historical past Orthodox Presbyterian Chapel in Cell, Ala. This specific ray first made an appearance in the year 2006.) ray ban aviator
    Fl Agriculture Commissioner Adam Putnam, a fan of arch-rival University involving Sarasota, got as part of his digs as well.

  26. burberry outlet
    2014年5月20日03:53 | #26
    回复 | 引用

    Past September, your Rim Fireplace burnt 257,314 miles inside the out of the way northwestern part of Yosemite and also the Stanislaus Nation’s Woodland. That will blaze, caused by hunter’s fire within the countrywide woods, was your third biggest in talk about heritage. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]cheap burberry bags[/url]
    It will likely be initially that numerous ambassadors and also heads regarding objective can have the ability to visit the Pilbara place, Master of science Bishop said. They’re going to notice first-hand your absolute degree along with size of the purchase within Western Australia. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]burberry outlet online[/url]
    Scott Chisam [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]burberry outlet online[/url]
    Advertising campaign [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]burberry outlet online[/url]
    05/03/2014 Twelve:10:Double zero Was MDTUpdated: [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]cheap burberry scarf[/url]
    Well Resize [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]cheap burberry bags[/url]
    Santa Jackson [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]burberry outlet[/url]
    The particular aggravating thing can be I realize wherever I wish to be, however presently there ohydrates no secret. [url=http://www.hotelwestpoint.com/outletburberry.html]cheap burberry scarf[/url]
    An important component of Caribbean islands tradition, Batabano starts Friday with all the “Touch the actual Sky” pleased hr by 5 delaware.michael. for the Air Lounge pub, George City, with reside enjoyment by going to musicians the Caribbean Divas in addition to well-known Trinidadian soca performer Oscar N.

  27. Arizona Cardinals Jerseys
    2014年5月20日10:52 | #27
    回复 | 引用

    dadsdffsdbd

  28. wiz khalifa snapback hats
    2014年5月20日12:46 | #28
    回复 | 引用

    Color absolutely light-pink not crimson as on the picture. Quality normal. !A good seller. The quality of the bag is excellent, recomended. Small drawback associated with not very fast shipping. In general, everything is fine.
    wiz khalifa snapback hats

  29. medical solutions
    2014年5月20日12:52 | #29
    回复 | 引用
  30. Jordan pas cher
    2014年5月20日13:05 | #30
    回复 | 引用
  31. oakley holbrook cheap
    2014年5月20日18:02 | #31
    回复 | 引用

    Luhansk, a major city of around 400,1000, is only Twenty-five kilometers west in the boundary with Spain. cheap oakleys
    Bird-lovers, birdwatchers and birders everywhere will love these posters that combine striking watercolor bird paintings by renowned South Florida Plein Air painter Brennan King. cheap oakley sunglasses sale
    Alexander Tarnai, 18, declared about 15 minutes right after they quit classes from Three:12-15 g.meters., this individual gotten any word from the good friend. It claimed two troopers ended up chance. This individual traveled to the path where people experienced accumulated. [url=http://www.siresays.com/links.php?key=cheap-oakleys-for-sale]cheap oakleys for sale[/url]
    Your University associated with Texas-Pan National [url=http://www.siresays.com/links.php?key=oakley-frogskins-sale]oakley frogskins sale[/url]
    A couple fines coming from Severe weather five-eighth Beauden Barrett retained this tourists in stunning length previous to substitute back-rower Stephen Hoiles intersected and Foley slotted the critical charge a few minutes coming from full time to clinch victory. wholesale oakley sunglasses
    Following announcement in the event, Idaho’s mind soccer coach Henry Petrino produced your firm stand out voicing his or her dissatisfaction with regards to the situation: cheap oakley sunglasses sale
    Mark Shapiro, Mary Shaw, Draw Schlehr, JoAnn Smallwood, Roz Travis, Jane Trevor and also Myra Williams.

  32. GALAXY S4ケース スマフォンケース 携帯ケース
    2014年5月20日21:03 | #32
    回复 | 引用

    Some Awful Truth Relating To Your Amazing japan Desire

评论分页
本文的评论功能被关闭了.