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我的拉萨——2011年5月为朋友杂志码的字

2015年4月9日
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开篇:

西藏,神秘,悠远,纯净。

拉萨,这两个字在唇边轻轻碰撞的时候,就仿佛绽开了一朵莲花。

每一个曾经去过西藏的人,都有一肚子的故事,从发亮的眼神中喷涌而出。

对有的人来说,去西藏是需要很长时间的准备的。整理很多行李,查阅很多资料,还要在心里反复练习如何呼吸那里的空气。

而对有的人来说,也许只是一次突然的心血来潮。在经历过高反的考验和美景的盛宴之后,全身心的折服。

……不管你的奔赴是哪一种,抑或你的离开是哪一种,可以肯定的是:

你都会在回来之后的最初的时光感觉到恍惚,似乎你的心有一部分遗落在了高原的蓝天下,伸展在艳阳下,微醺在青稞酒中,悠然在诵经声里。

在回来很久以后,你也会忽然之间被某一段音乐,或者某一张照片触动,在西藏的点滴在瞬间如潮水将你淹没。

据说,西藏是会让人上瘾的。

那一刻,你信了。

***

布达拉宫和拉萨河

初见布达拉宫,大多数人都曾经会有一点点失望——它居然矗立在闹市中,在水泥地的包围中!它居然看上去也不那么宏伟。可是,在逗留拉萨几日,你会发现,在这座城市每一个比较高,或者比较没有遮拦的地方,都看得到它。每多看一次,就多爱它一点。在离开时,飞机掠过布达拉宫时你再俯望,才深深认同:它是这座城市的眼睛,和心脏,或者是那粒朱砂痣,是灵魂。

而拉萨河则不同。你对她本来没有什么期待,你邂逅她时发现她如此柔美的,娴雅的流动着,在拉萨的南部蜿蜒而过,与高原的粗犷形成了奇异的对比。拉萨河上的风是清凉的,水是欢腾的,云是变幻的。你就这么顺着她的曲线闲庭信步,在“天光云影共徘徊”中找到了宁静与平和。

拉萨河的南岸是沙地和一些倔强的草木,再远处是层峦叠嶂,连绵伸展。北岸边是宽宽的河畔广场,这里常能看到当地人搭上帐篷,或钓鱼、或戏水、或沐浴,喝着酥油茶,吃着各种美食,尽情享受拉萨的灿烂阳光与闲情逸致,生活美得直冒泡。

八廓街(拉萨旧城区,围绕大昭寺)

八廓街有一种魔力,吸引着你一去再去。混杂在转经的老人、嗑长头的信徒、金发碧眼的观光客、装备齐全的背包客的中间,看着密密麻麻的摊点上艳丽无比的藏饰、花布、法器还有大大小小的手工艺品,呼吸着浸润着幽幽藏香的空气,被透明的阳光拥抱着,喜悦无来由的从心里汩汩的向外流淌,与其他人的喜悦汇流在一起,变成了一片令你无法自拔的海洋。

面对斑斓的绿松石、银戒指、绘了红楼十二钗的碗、整箱的藏香、串珠项链……美女们忍不住挂得自己一身丁冬。而那些有特色的店招,则会被帅哥们一一收入镜头。那些鲜花怒放的窗台,每一个都那么浓艳而不俗丽,每一个都可轻易入画。

玛吉阿米(八廓街的东南角)

玛吉阿米的下午特别迷人。午后这里人通常不多,你可以奢侈地抱拥一整个屋子的细节和安然。墙上错落的那些照片,那些画,柔软的沙发,雕花的瓶瓶罐罐,音乐,藏香,时光仿佛是不流动的。留言本上,各种文字各种笔迹书写着各种故事,比书架上的原版书更值得一读。

如果你选择在午夜12点穿过几乎无人的八角街——路灯下这里和白天完全不同,泛着琢磨不定的青铜色的光——去玛吉阿米小坐,会发现这里越夜越美丽。聊天的唱歌的跳舞的人们,分散在每个角落。小心提防这里的酸奶酒虽然只是在酸奶里掺了一点点青稞酒,一不小心也会醉得面如桃花。

离开的时候,也许你会迎着一轮巨大的满月。传说,藏第六世达赖喇嘛仓央嘉措曾在这里与一个月亮般纯美的少女“玛吉阿米”相会,留下了浪漫情诗若干。“在那东方山顶,升起皎洁月亮,玛吉阿米的面容,渐渐浮现心上”——如画的诗篇流传至今。玛吉阿米底层的小店售卖他的诗集《情僧绝唱》。不过,那是不可言说的情愫,留在心里就好了。现在,我们爱的就是玛吉阿米这一个让人内心温暖放松的空间,已经与他,或她无关了。

罗布林卡(拉萨西郊)

罗布林卡被称为“拉萨的颐和园”,却是一个相对冷门的景点。如果你留心一下,会发现,西藏游客比外来游客更多。这里是历代达赖喇嘛的夏宫,藏语意为“宝贝公园”,比布达拉更有亲和力的小宫殿星布在园林中。在绿树掩映中邂逅一只小野兔,它用善良而灵性的目光看着你,你会觉得心都要融化了。

在这里,你可以看到达赖喇嘛的更世俗的生活,从阅书室到讲经院到戏台,可以欣赏讲述西藏发展历史的精美壁画,也可以对着湖中的珍禽吹吹风发发呆。典型的藏式建筑色彩浓烈却并不感觉繁杂,隐隐有一种力量的美。

雪顿节期间,在这里可以免费观赏到最出色的藏戏表演,一出接一出,没有重复。只有在这周(8月23到29日),连寺里的喇嘛都可以放假。

纳木措(距离拉萨240公里)

即使看遍西藏的风光,纳木措依然会让人念念不忘。圣湖的美丽和她的气场,让你屏息凝神不敢惊动她,又让你胸怀激荡想要膜拜她。

流云翻滚,湖面呈现出丰富层次的蓝和绿,交融又独立,仿佛一大块隐隐流动的碧玉。在远处雪山的映衬下,又添了神秘和悠远的气息。湖岸的每一处曲线都那么流畅而恰到好处。黄昏时分,晚霞像燃烧的火焰,将厚厚的云层“烧”出了一个圆洞,洞内是绚烂的白光,似乎那是一个通向天堂的入口。清晨时分,她从深浓的但是漫天星光的夜色中苏醒,色调从清冷渐渐转暖,如少女颊边飞上的红晕。

如果时间允许,请与她相守24小时,看每一寸光影的变化带给她的不同的美,仿佛看尽了沧海变化,而内心却是通透的纯净的最初的赤子情怀。环湖的零星景点,其实也真的值得你气定神闲地一一看去。

TIPS:

拉萨美食

其实,拉萨不仅有美景,还有深藏不露的美食呢。

藏家宴   在二环旁边的一条小路里,很低调,但进去之后发现生意好到连加座都爆满。这家店是班禅的厨师开的,酥油炒香菇、萝卜骨头汤、羊肺、牛肚、咖喱土豆……所有的菜都美味难当。

雪域餐厅  就在八廓街。你一边用中文报菜名,一边看到那个藏族美女侍应生用英文在记录同时用藏语告诉同伴快点去准备,实在是很奇妙的体验。

突击营地西餐酒廊  能把牦牛排能做得鲜嫩多汁又有嚼劲!这个登山主题的餐馆,老板是西藏登山学校的校长尼玛次仁。墙上和房顶挂满了各种登山用品,甚至有一辆从珠峰大本营骑回来的越野小摩托,和一面人工攀岩墙。

加加面  不太起眼的小店。先一人上一碗砖茶,然后一人来一只辣油汤碗,接着小姑娘就开始一小碗一小碗地上面,面上撒着葱花和又香又韧的藏香猪的肉丁,只有你说再加,她就不断地端上来,你拿过来朝自己的汤碗里倒就是。面也是很有筋骨的,超级美味。

未分类

有故事的女同学

2013年9月15日

小C是我的老友,她的心是一匹野马,但找一片草原并不容易。于是,她成了那个最有故事的女同学。

高中时代,大多数懵懂少女如我,都在痴迷三毛的撒哈拉或者琼瑶的爱恨情愁,而小C读的是尼采康德甚至佛经。她的小房间里,有一面墙是顶天立地的书架,静默着我全然陌生的大部头。她大多数时间很活泼,但也常常会突然安静,眼神迷离,不知神游去了何方。她的字很特别,瘦长飘逸,像是随时会化作一缕青烟飘走。她写得一手好文章,但也常让人看不懂,那些诸如“紫色的灵魂在飞升”之类的字句,让语文老师纠结着不知该如何给她评分。

小C成绩很好,却在高考时失误,进了帝都一所二本的高校。但,北京是她爱的城市,苍茫而深邃,纷乱又孤独,和她那时的气质很合拍。她在大学里谈了两场惊天动地的恋爱,一场是姐弟恋,一场恋了个比她大十岁的大叔。然后毕业,斩断情丝,进了一家知名的外企。没多久,又切换到恋爱频道。这次,是一个年龄相当的白净的好青年,对她宠爱有加,甚至都拜见过了她的父母。可是,突然的,就分手了,小C火速就飞去了欧洲读书。我问她原因,她说,他太好了,好到没有缺点,然后就没感觉了。

读书的时光其实还蛮清苦的,而小C,却总能把日子过得狠戏剧。毕业后不久,结婚了。她牵着欧洲小帅哥重归故里,在小城办了个纯中式的婚礼,引得众人围观,是真的“入戏”的感觉。我们都以为她终于安定下来了,以为这个有一头黑缎子般长发的娇小的东方女子,终是找到了她的Mr Right,从此过上了幸福的生活。

可是,剧情又开始上演新一季。小C和欧洲小帅哥和平分手了。有一段时间生活漂泊,暴瘦到让人心疼。再然后,她偶然的机会遇上了一位失联数年的欧洲帅哥,极短的时间内友情升温为爱情,野马忽然就驯服了。上个月,小C的宝宝呱呱坠地,这是小C的妈妈盼望多年的温馨一刻。

我知道,有一天小C一定会写下她自己的故事,关于那些飞奔那些驻足那些回眸那些挣扎。我们一起等着她娓娓道来吧。

#慧心一笑#20130830

未分类

停电那一夜

2013年7月14日

是否记得《明天我要嫁给你了》中那句歌词:“要不是停电那一夜,才发现我寂寞空洞”?停电,真有这么浪漫,能够让你下定决心,牵起那个人的手?嗯,咱们还是现实一点吧。

周一下午,暴雨降临多伦多前,天边风起云涌,我一边拿手机拍照还一边赞叹:这光影效果太美了,简直就是印象派油画!事实比照片要残酷,我拍完照片不久,大雨倾盆而下。到6点半左右,我住的公寓停电了!从窗外望出去,目力所及的范围灯光全熄了。

此刻,才忽然意识到我们的生活没有电几乎全线瘫痪。电饭煲里的饭,靠着余温再焖一会儿然后夹生着就吃了。电炉上正在炒的菜,来不及收汁,将就着吃了。洗衣机不工作了,那就暂停着吧。电脑上不了网,手机也用不了wifi,变成电子砖头了。电视也看不成了,不知道新闻台是否正在播停电的新闻。 空调当然也罢工,屋里有点闷和湿。想洗个澡,热水器又不工作。天色尚亮,但用来看书却嫌不够亮。好在有孩子在身边,陪他玩玩具,编故事,吃点东西,一家人聊聊天。若是单身,这时候,大概就有些百无聊赖了。

到了晚上8点,还是没有来电的迹象,而我需要电和网络来完成当天的工作。不得已,打电话到朋友的酒吧求助,万幸,6公里以外的这个酒吧没有停电,决定独自开车过去。再打电话给物业,确认地下车库的门是开着的。然后,从19楼走到地下2层,有点喘。一路上大部分交通信号都不工作了,司机们都很礼让次第通过,只是速度比龟爬快不了多少。

在灯光明亮人声嘈杂音乐劲爆的酒吧里,我找了角落坐下,接上电连上wifi,顿时有重回人间的感觉。上网一看:密市70%用户停电,万锦列治文山29000户停电,怡陶碧谷6000户停电,所有地铁停运,部分高速路段封闭。原来,这场豪雨差不多是平常一个月的降雨量,市中心已一片泽国。此时能找到一个有电有网的地方,已是幸运。于是开始专心工作,周围的一切似乎都象与我隔了一层磨砂玻璃。工作快完成的时候,酒吧内客人减稀少,先生正好来电说公寓也终于重回光明。

到家才发现又杯具了。电梯停运,楼梯没有灯,而且手机在地下二层没有信号。正进退两难间,车库里走来一个年轻男子,一问,是住在19楼上面那层顶楼的。他的手机有手电功能,于是结伴爬楼互相打气。走到19楼的时候,我心跳如敲鼓,腿都软了。对他说:我终于到了,你继续加油哦!

进家门扑倒在床上直喘粗气的时候,忍不住抱怨了一句:停电一点都不浪漫!当然,也许对热恋中的情侣,正是一个排除一切外部干扰,静静交心的绝好机会?你觉得呢?

#慧心一笑#20130712

关于20130708那天多伦多的大雨

未分类

生日之旅——那些美好的小幸福

2013年3月13日
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